Swan's Island: Stay in a down east Lighthouse

Sleep In a Lighthouse

Swan’s Island Lighthouse Location

Like many cool places Down East in Hancock County, Maine, this lighthouse looks close to Acadia National Park on a map but getting there is a different story. Technically, it is only 6 miles south of Mount Desert Island.

Some day I will write an entire blog post titled “You Can’t Get There From Here,”with dozens of examples from Maine. Wouldn’t Maine life be so much easier if we all traveled as the crow flies?

If you are planning to make the less than 16 mile trip from Acadia National Park to the Swan’s Island Lighthouse, it will take you about an hour and fifteen minutes. You will need to take the Swan’s Island Ferry to get there.

Burnt Coat Lighthouse History

The Lighthouse is on Swan’s Island

The lighthouse is located on Hockamock Head, Swan’s Island which has an interesting history itself. No, the island was not named after the waterfowl. Swan’s Island is the former landholding of Colonel James Swan, who purchased it in 1786.

Swan: Revolutionary Figure, Banker, Debtor, Swan’s Island Namesake

Swan earned his military rank fighting for the Revolutionary Army at the Battle of Bunker Hill. He was active in Massachusetts politics, a member of the Sons of Liberty and participated in the Boston Tea Party, according to several sources. However, all the sources I found, except one, were vague when describing his participation in the Boston Tea Party.  Only Herman Wesley Small’s  1898 publication of “A History of Swan’s Island, Maine,” identifies Swan as one of the Native American impersonators who poured tea into Boston Harbor. 

Interestingly, Swan published an anti-slavery book in 1772 entitled, “A Dissuasion of Great Britain and Her Colonies from the Slave Trade.”

Clearly, Swan was somewhat of a unapologetic  provocateur. He was unafraid to stand up for his beliefs.

Later in life Swan was a banker. His fortunes rose and fell. Ultimately, he died in a French debtor’s prison in 1830. 

As beautiful as Swan’s Island is, I suspect that its namesake may have spent very little time there. Although he passed away almost 50 years after buying the island, the last two decades were spent in prison. 

According to Friends of the Swan’s Island Lighthouse Colonel Swan may never have set foot on the island at all!

Regardless, Mr. Swan, your island is a treasure!

Prior to Swan’s acquisition, the island was used as a hunting ground by local Native American tribes.

Burnt Coat Harbor Light Tower and Keeper’s House

Both the light tower and the keeper’s house were built post- Civil War in 1872. 

Burnt Coat’s first keeper, Fredrick Allen was appointed by President Ulysses S. Grant. His meticulous notes on day to day life in the new lighthouse are now a part of the National Archives.

For almost 100 years, each lighthouse keeper and his/her family lived in the house. Yes, it is the same house that you, too, can stay in.

According to an 1871 edition of the Annual Report of the Lighthouse Board, “this harbor is commodious and safe, and is distant 36 miles from the nearest place of safe anchorage on that coast.” 

For the first 10 years of it’s operation, there were two lighthouses operating. In 1884, after receiving numerous complaints from sailors, the second lighthouse was removed. Apparently,  passing ships found the dual lighthouses confusing. 

Automation Takes Another Job, on Swan’s Island!

1975 was a year of change in the US. President Gerald Ford recently took over from President Nixon. On Swan’s Island, change manifested itself in the way of lighthouse automation. Sadly, per the United States Coast Guard’s directive, Burnt Coat Lighthouse  on Hockamock Head Street no longer needed a human lighthouse operator on-site. 

In the period from 1975-2006, the Keepers House was boarded up and fell into disrepair. In 2006, a restoration effort began.

National Register of History Places

In 1988, the lighthouse was added the the National Register of Historic Places. One very significant reason for it’s inclusion is that many of the structures on-site remained close to intact, true to the original design. According to Kirk F. Mohney, Historian with the Maine Historic Preservation Commission,  there were only a few modifications made over time.

Burnt Coat is an Active Lighthouse

Despite the lighthouse’s storied history, it is an active and functional lighthouse, providing navigational aid to passing ships. Friends of the Swan’s Island Lighthouse have done extensive renovations to the facility, starting in 2006. 

Swan’s Island Ferry

The ferry to Swan’s Island operates year-round and makes approximately 6 trips each day between Bass Harbor and Swan’s Island.  I say approximately, because ferry service is subject to weather and seasonal variations. Call ahead or check the ferry website to confirm.

The Bass Harbor Ferry Terminal is located at 45 Granville Road., Tremont, Maine. Phone# 207-244-3254.

Each leg of the trip runs 40 minutes.

You can take your car or leave it on Mt.Desert Island. However, be aware: 

• There is no public transportation on Swan’s Island.
• The ferry has space for only 17 cars.
• The ferry operator sets aside four car reservations for each trip. Reserve your car space up to 30 days in advance. Unless you’re taking an impromptu trip, I would call to reserve your car space ahead of time.
• Be at the ferry terminal at least 15 minutes before your scheduled departure

Ferry Tickets to Swan’s Island

If you are taking a quick trip buy an “Excursion” ticket which are less expensive than standard round trip tickets. However, excursion tickets are not designed to let you spend time on the island.

As of 2019, each round trip costs anywhere from $15-40 dollars (US) depending on whether you’re taking a bike, car, truck, etc. and whether or not you’re buying a reservation or winging it. For a full menu of current ferry pricing, visit the Maine Department of Transportation website. 

A Final Ferry Tip

You are working around the ferry’s schedule, not the other way around. Arrive early and make reservations if possible, Despite the small crowds and small town feeling on Swan’s Island, the ferry is run by the state of Maine. It’s not going to wait or make an extra trip if you miss the last run. 

Lighthouse Lodging on Swan’s Island

The actual lighthouse address is 433 Harbor Road, Swan’s Island ME 04685.

To get a full living-at-the-lighthouse experience, you want to stay in the Keeper’s House Apartment. There, you’ll join a storied list of Burnt Coat residents.

• 1872-75, Frederick A. Allen
• 1875-83, William N. Wasgatt
• 1883-86, Thomas E. Dodge
• 1886-97, James Orcutt 
• 1897-1932, Orrin L. Milan
• 1932-43, Roscoe Chandler
• 1968-73, Richard Braman
• 1970-72, Don Constantino
• 1973-75, Philip Felch 

The Keepers House Layout

You would expect the view to be spectacular from the Keepers House and it is. The living quarters are on the upper floor. 

However, you may also expect the living area of a lighthouse to be cramped. It is surprisingly spacious,for a lighthouse.

• Living Room has a small kitchen, work space and a designated dining area.
• Upstairs bedroom is large with a full size bed
• One bathroom with both a tub and shower

To get to the Keepers House living quarters, you must climb a set of stairs. There is no elevator available.

Amenities

The Keepers House is equipped with WiFi. Sheets and towels are provided.

Things To Note on Lodging

As you might expect, an operational lighthouse is not like a typical hotel. There are a few logistical considerations you should be aware of.

• The downstairs rooms of the lighthouse are occasionally open to the public. When they are not open, you (as Honorary Lighthouse Keeper) are responsible for keeping the doors locked. 
• The downstairs rooms are not part of your living space.
• Up to two guest are allowed on your stay. Additional guests may be allowed but you need to seek prior approval when making your reservation.
• The lighthouse grounds are open to the public. Thus, people take picnic lunches and fishermen walk the premises. Be prepared to share the grounds.
• Smoking is not allowed.
• No pets allowed (sorry!)

Rental Information 

As always, check the website or call property manager Maili Bailey 207-399-2563 (cell) or 207-526-4350 to get current information. Maili lives on Swan’s Island during the summer and her preferred method of contact is phone.

However, this info is current as of March 2019. 

• Rate is $1000/week.
• There is a minimum stay of 1 week during the in-season months of July and August.
• The rental week runs from Saturday to Saturday.
• Check-in time is 2PM. Check-out time is 10AM.

Things to do on Swan’s Island.

• Hiking
• Biking
• Painting
• Relaxing

Many of the people who stay at Burnt Coat Lighthouse do so for the tranquility. 

Swan’s Island is a small quiet island, accessible by ferry, with a year round population of 332 people. That number balloons up to 1000 in the summer months. Note that I didn’t include shopping in the things-to-do list above. The island does have some shops but if you need something from a chain-store, you will be taking a ferry ride off the island.

Shops on the Island

• The Island Market and Supply (TIMS) . Local grocery shop.
• Swan’s Island Fisherman’s Co-op. Gas is available here.
• There are also several souvenir shops on the island. 

Swan’s Island is a small wooded, rural island. Thus, you can cover much of the island within the span of a one day trip.

Staying at a lighthouse is a truly unique experience. It’s an experience you can only have in a select few places. Burnt Coat Harbor Lighthouse on Swan’s Island is one of them!